Annotated Bibliography: Vivise Seetwood's Mini-Crinoline

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Essay Outline and Annotated Bibliography I. Vivienne Westwood’s ‘Mini-Crini’ I have chosen to discuss British designer Vivienne Westwood’s S/S 1985 ‘Mini-Crini’ -pictured below (fig.1). I wish to explore Westwood’s intriguing fusion of 19th Century crinoline with the 1960’s mini and the sexual connotations that arise from the conjunction of these two extreme fashions in relation to the female form. FIG.1 VIVIENNE WESTWARD ‘MINI-CRINI’ S/S 1985 SOURCE: http://www.viviennewestwood.com/history/early-years II. A Historical Mash-Up A breakdown of Westwood’s ‘Mini-Crini’ in structural and material terms. The origins of crinoline and its use in the 19th century. The mini-skirt - ‘youth quake’ fashion and Mary Quant, the ‘inventor’ of the mini-skirt. III. Sexualisation of the Female Form through Fashion The Lolita Movement - The mini skirt a paradigm of womens’ liberation but also a pinnacle of sexualisation of women. The fetishisation of young girls through this fashion. Fetishisation of the crinoline skirts of 19th century - machoism - adhering to male fantasy / restricting nature of the cage - limited movement - kept women contained / restrained Westwood’s treatment of the female figure and her stance on femininity. IV. Reaction Critical and public reception of the Westwood ‘Mini-Crini’ - not well received initially. Context of the Crini within Westwood’s career - preceding collections and later collections, eg. Anglomania Collection 1991. Long-lasting impact -

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