Beach Morphodynamic Classification

Beach Morphodynamic Classification

A classification according to Wright and Short (1984) was applied to categorize the morphodynamic state of the studied beaches. It describes the varying conditions by evaluating the relationships between beach slope, wave forcing, and sediment characteristics. In this study, the morphodynamic indices were considered to test the applicability of the parameter inputs, including surf scaling (ξ) and dimensionless fall velocity (Ω) in order to distinguish different level of beach morphodynamic states (Carter, 1988; Short, 1999).

The parameters of swash slope and median grain sizes were calculated and computed using GRADISTAT software. Data on median grain size (D50) and swash slope (β) were then referred to

It is an extensive analysis that has led to an important classification of beaches that is applied worldwide for decades (Davis & Fitzgerald, 2004). Median size diameter (D50) and swash slope are among the key parameters taken into consideration in order to classify the beach state (Carter, 1988; Short, 1999). From the data gain of both parameters however, only swash slope gives a strong effectiveness of morphodynamic classifying for the visual classification of Wright & Short (1984).

The classified beach types are presented in Table 7.6. It could be generally defined that the beaches along the Pahang coastal region are classified as an intermediate and dissipative state. At the northern region of Pahang, the classification of the beaches of TelukChempedak (ST 1), Taman Gelora (ST 2) and Tanjung Lumpur (ST 3) varied from reflective and intermediate, where the beach site of Taman Gelora tends to be near-dissipative type. The reflective beaches were mostly obtained at the northern part of Pahang coast due to steeper swash slopes as exposed by wave attack vulnerability. The TelukChempedak beach, for example, became a tourist attraction for years, provides a diverse assortment of activities and facilities. It can be considered the beach presently underutilized. This may give plausible explanations for the reflective morphodynamic

They explained that these hazards occurred due to reflective beach morphotypes that are sheltered from waves by structures such as rocks or jetties development. Even though wave height is relatively low in these protected locations, the deep inshore water along steep-reflective beach-faces poses a high risk of swimming activities. In the middle and southern regions of the study area, beaches from Peramu (ST 4) to Kuala Pahang (ST 12) exhibits as intermediate and dissipative state during the six respective months. The intermediate and dissipative beaches are usually longer than the reflective beaches, with gentler slope gradient. This may due to the site specific and differential energy forces (lower) that act towards this area at a particular