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Seam Puckering Research Paper

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Seam puckering is defined as gathering of a seam either during sewing or after sewing, or after laundering, leading to an undesirable seam appearance to the garment. It is more frequent on woven fabrics especially on tightly woven fabric than knitted fabric (Amann 2015; Mathews 1986; Mehta 1992). Seam puckering is typically caused by the following conditions: • Yarn Displacement (structural jamming of yarns in fabric). • Tension Puckering (extreme thread tension and recovery). • Machine puckering (uneven ply feeding). • Shrinkage (seam components have differential shrinkage compared to fabric). 6.3.1.1 Seam Puckering due to Structural Jamming Seam puckering is more common on tightly woven fabrics (high thread density) since the yarns …show more content…

“If the seam puckering is visible even after the cutting of sewing threads, then yarn displacement is the possible cause as shown in Figure …show more content…

Then, remove the sewing thread in the seam and check whether two fabric plies are of equal length. If one fabric is longer than the other then the puckering is being caused by the uneven feeding of fabric (Fredrerick et.al 1999; Schmetz 2001). Solutions to Feed Puckering To minimize seam puckering due to uneven feeding of fabric, the following corrective action should be done: • The pressure on presser foot should be minimum to keep up uniform feeding. The clamping of fabric by presser foot should be ensured at front as well as back of the needle. • Setting of feed dogs with respect to its height as well as back feeding should be ensured. The selection of feed dog with reference to number of teeth per inch and number of rows of teeth should be done. The feed dog with 20-24 TPI (teeth per inch) for light weight fabrics, 14 1-8 TPI for medium weight and 8-12 TPI for heavy weight fabrics are normally preferred. • The presser foot and needle plate should have comparatively small needle holes with respect to the needle size being used. • Utilization of Teflon coated low-friction presser foot is

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